Pranjal Trivedi

A wristwatch is one of those elements of dress by which some people will choose to define you. Watches are like jewelries which can serve as timeless collections.

In today’s age when the current time or something close to it–blinks on every cell phone, laptop, microwave and dashboard, wristwatches are still vital. We are obsessed with time, paradoxically pursued by it and never having enough. Whether we are running late for a plane, dashing to a meeting or waiting for a friend on a street corner, we all share a universal mannerism: the reflexive wristwatch check. And seeing as how we spend so much of our lives rotating our wrists and checking the time, we may as well have something beautiful or cool or interesting to look at.

The appeal of a fine wristwatch goes well beyond mere time telling. Strapped snugly on the left or the right, watches speak of class, taste, functionality and, of course, punctuality. Beside neckties, they’re one of the few fashion accessories that reveal a man’s personal style. And a quality wristwatch can be passed down for generation

Watchbazar took a few from the list of fast growing Entry Level Swiss Watch Brands which are a must own and do not burn a hole in your pockets.

Tissot 

Tissot was founded in 1853 by Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son Charles-Émile Tissot in the Swiss city of Le locle, in the Neuchatel area of the Jura Mountains.Tissot introduced the first mass-produced pocket watch as well as the first pocket watch with two time zones in 1853 and the first anti-magnetic watch in 1929–30.

     Appella

Appella was born in 1943 at Porrentruy, Switzerland. The brand was created by Jahre Paul Glocker, the legendary Swiss horologist and Chairman of EBOSA group. Since then Appella has dedicatedly kept pace with the changing tastes and requirements. Appella makes the Infinitus ‘slimmest Swiss movement with a height of only 0.98 mm along with the slimmest case 3.35 mm’.

Festina

The company was founded in 1902 in La Chaux-de-Fonds,Switzerland. . In 1984, Cadiz(La Linea) entrepreneur Miguel Rodríguez, already owner of Lotus watches, bought Festina and created the group. Festina Lotus SAFestina is also known for its sponsorship of the Festina Cycling Team  from 1989 to 2001

 Milus

The company was founded in 1919 by Paul William Junod (1896-1951) under the name of Milus Watch Company. With its watchmaking training, its creator sought early on to produce a watch that is both precise and elegant.

Ebel

Ebel was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds by Swiss industrialist and watchmaker Eugene Blum and his wife Alice Levy. In 1999, the Ebel luxury watch company was sold to the French luxury brands group LVMH; then in 2004, the company was resold to the American group Movodo.

Happy Reading………..

Most watch companies use grade 316 L for their watches …but Rolex uses 904 L

Lets brief you why..

Firstly Grade 316 is the standard molybdenum-bearing grade. The molybdenum gives Grade 316 high corrosion resistant properties and particularly high resistance to pitting  and also crevice corrosion in chloride environments. Grade 316L is the low carbon version of 316. There is not much price difference between 316 and 316L

Where Grade 904L is a non-stabilised low carbon high alloy austenitic stainless steel. The addition of copper to this grade gives it greatly improved resistance to strong reducing acids, particularly sulphuric acid. It is also highly resistant to chloride attack – both pitting / crevice corrosion and stress corrosion cracking. It is also non-magnetic in all conditions. Further, it contains substantial content of the high cost ingredients nickel and molybdenum.

Advantage of 904L over 316L? 
It’s not a higher grade of steel, merely a “different” grade. All that extra chromium and nickel simply means that it has better resistance to corrosion and pitting than 316L and that it is a more heat treatable steel to harden, to be used in dies, punches, bending and blanking equipment. So in fact, 904L is a “tool steel” much like how Rolex were first made to be “tool watches”. 904L steel is only more expensive because it is not as popular in general application as 316L.

Nickel content of 904L is two times that of 316L,   Also 904L is not as common as 316L, and is expensive.
904L
Chromium  19% – 23%
Molybdenum  4% – 5%
Nickel  23% – 28%

316L
Chromium  16% – 18%
Molybdenum  2% – 3%
Nickel  10% – 14%

Rolex used to use the same steel as everyone else, but in around 2003 they moved their entire steel production to 904L steel.

In 1988 they released their first 904L steel watch with a few versions of the Sea-Dweller.

904L steel is more rust and corrosion resistant, and is somewhat harder than other steels. Most important to Rolex, is that 904L steel, when worked properly, is able to take (and hold) polishes incredibly well. If you’ve ever noticed that steel on a Rolex watch looks different than other watches, it is because of 904L steel, and how Rolex has learned to work with it.

The 904L Rolex uses a VAR grade, (Vacuum Arc Remelt).  The remelting removes inclusions and impurities in the steel, it’s referred to as “cleaner” steel.  This is done by the steel provider at the mill.  Typically VAR steels are used in parts subject to fatigue, the cleaner steel improves fatigue life, VAR steel grades are common in tools, bearings and aerospace applications.

We feel the another advantage of the 904L is it’s formability, meaning it cold forges easier than 316L which makes it easier to shape.  Rolex will not have to replace the forging dies as frequently and can possibly reduce the number of steps required to manufacture the case.

Watchbazar feels that although other watch manufacturers use 316L surgical quality stainless steel, Rolex sets itself apart by using a slightly harder, more chemical resistant steel that is yet another quality that sets Rolex into a different category watches of watches.

Happy Reading …………

Thanks to the overwhelming response to our earlier post on the “Appella Infinitus”

We got in touch with the enterprising team at Appella corporate headquarters in JLT Dubai.

Mr Parth Trivedi (Director) with his vast in depth knowledge and expertise in horology intense entrepreneurial skills makes a perfect leader for a company with so much Swiss tradition of perfectionism and class.

Appella was born in 1943 at Porrentruy, Switzerland. The brand was created by Jahre Paul Glocker, the legendary Swiss horologist and Chairman of EBOSSA group. Montres Appella has its corporate headquarters in Geneva, Switzerland, and the brand is currently registered in 70 countries world-wide. Soon after its inception Appella watches were introduced in distinctive, selective luxury timepieces keeping abreast with the latest fad, yet maintaining the conventional Swiss tradition. Appella belongs to the select & elite category of Swiss watch manufacturers who produce 18K solid Gold, Diamond and high- end mechanical watches.

Mr Parth Trivedi updated us that ” Appella is extending through watch specialists and brand fit department stores to new customers in new markets. We have found that consumers want style and fashion married with functionality and durability. This is the unrivaled quality of an Appella watch whose range start at alluring prices…… The watches are incredibly well designed and Appella watches are not just instruments of timekeeping but also objects of art that transcend time whilst maintaining the original heritage values.”

Team Appella also informed us that they had like always a great response at Basel World 2015 and have added many new clients to their already vast list  and have launched a aggressive ad campaign.

Russia

Russia

Ukraine

Watchbazar also interacted with reputable and elite Swiss watch dealers and distributors for our feedback on the brand , we found out that Appella is known for combining old-fashioned charm with innovative new designs. It won praise from reviewers for its originality and new trends.
We Wish everyone at Team Appella a great journey and sincerely appreciate the honest and precise feed back ..

Happy Reading………..

Its been a while since we got our first Appella Infinitus

What spoke to us  the most about this watch, you can call us weight weenies but the lightness and thinness of this crepe of a watch is unlike anything else we have experienced.

In comparison to other watches we own like the Invicta 3426 with 4.8 mm at its thickest point and Citizen Stiletto with 5mm. Infinitus is a sure winner with  3.35 mm and comfort is certainly at the utmost. Honestly once the watch is worn, you truly do not even notice that it is on your wrist.

Infinitus enjoys the title of world’s  slimmest Swiss movement with a height of only 0.98 mm along with  case 3.35 mm’.

Appella offers ( 18K Solid Gold) yellow and white gold options for case we went with the yellow cause it shows the brighter side of the watch in sync with the dial and its roman numerals. The strap is made of  Louisiana crocodile leather with the ever stylish center cut skin square grain and the result is a stylish look that makes an impression no matter where you go or what you wear with the Appella Infinitus.

Individually certified by the Swiss Central Office for Precious Metal Control for the purity of the gold contents and each watch has a traceable unique serial number engraved on the back of the case.

We appreciate the master craftsmen engaged with Appella for such a gorgeous and sleek watch which will be in vogue always.

Our final say would be Appella Infinitus is by far the lightest and thinnest watch which we have ever worn and we don’t need huge clocks strapped to our wrists when we can have slimline beauties instead and Infinitus is a must have .

Happy Reading ………….

Looks like its a Retro Review week at Watchbazar

Tourbillon (“whirlwind”) is an addition to the mechanics of a watch escapement.

Developed around 1795 and patented by the French-Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet on June 26, 1801, a tourbillon aims to counter the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, to negate the effect of gravity when the timepiece (thus the escapement) is stuck in a certain position. By continuously rotating the entire balance wheel/escapement assembly at a slow rate (typically about one revolution per minute), positional errors are averaged out.

Originally an attempt to improve accuracy, tourbillons are still included in some expensive modern watches as a novelty and demonstration of watchmaking virtuosity. The mechanism is usually exposed on the watch’s face to show it off.

Gravity has a direct effect on the most delicate parts of the escapement, namely the pallet fork, balance wheel and hairspring. Most notably is the hairspring, which functions as the timing regulator for the escapement and is thus the part most sensitive to any exterior effects, such as magnetism, shocks, temperature, as well as inner effects such as pinning positions (inner collet), terminal curve, and heavy points on the balance wheel.
An assembled tourbillon, clearly showing balance wheel, pallet fork and escape wheel.
Many inventions have been developed to counteract these problems. Temperature and magnetism problems have been eliminated with new materials. Shocks have much less effect today than at Breguet’s time thanks to stronger and more resilient materials. The oscillator still gets disturbed at the moment of the shock, but the hairspring does not get as easily deformed from shocks as before, and so re-stabilizes itself quickly after such an event.

Gravity comes into play on the remaining effects. One of them is easily taken away, namely heavy points on the balance wheel. This leaves pinning point and terminal curve. Both of these add a lot of variation to the regulation of a watch; assembly, regulation adjustments by the watchmaker, positioning in the watch, and later position changes by the owner. As the balance wheel goes from one extreme position to the other in its swing back and forth, the hairspring’s coils extend and contract a great deal, leading to problems that are extremely hard to counteract. Some have tried using hairsprings that are cylindrical or even spherical instead of flat as is prominent today. Some variations of Breguet’s overcoil have been developed to counteract the effects of the terminal curve. As for the pinning point, Grossmann, Berthoud, Breguet, Caspari and Leroy tried many different possibilities, but not much improvement was gained.

The biggest obstacle for a watchmaker regulating a watch, even today, is getting a similar result from the escapement no matter the position it is kept in. This has been made infinitely easier with accurate timing machines which give instantaneous timing results, whereas in Breguet’s time all that watchmakers had was another watch to regulate from. So, results were not very exact and it could take weeks to get them. Effects of gravity on an escapement can have quite significant effects with slight variations of position. Even if a pocket watch was kept most of the time in a breast pocket, the exact position could still vary over 45°. A tourbillon quite neatly takes away this problem. The watchmaker now only needs to regulate for 3 different positions, instead of 6 as before. Those are two horizontal positions, dial up and down, and four vertical positions, crown at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° mechanism.

Even today with new materials and improved theories, it is impossible to regulate a mechanical watch so it keeps the same time in all positions. A tourbillon presents today’s watchmakers the possibility of higher accuracy than conventional movements, although poising the balance well and ensuring that the balance spring expands and contracts symmetrically can achieve virtually the same result. A tourbillon most often makes one complete revolution per minute. This improves timekeeping in the 4 vertical positions because, even if a watch is stationary in a random vertical position, the tourbillon makes the escapement turn around its own axis, effectively ironing out the effects of gravity by turning the balance through all possible vertical positions during its rotation. A tourbillon has no effect in horizontal positions, since here the balance is horizontal and not affected by gravity as it turns.

Tourbillon Types

Flying tourbillon

Multiple tourbillons

Inclined

Double

Multi-axis

Orbital

Several Chinese manufacturers now produce a variety of tourbillon movements.

These movements are bought as ébauches by some foreign manufacturers and incorporated into watches that meet the requirements of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry to be sold as Swiss watches.

The availability of cheap tourbillons has led industry spectators to worry that another Quartz crisis may occur, where the Swiss watch industry will not be able to adapt quickly to cheaper complicated mechanical watches produced in other countries.

Happy Reading folks ..shall write about the types of Tourbillons soon

• Swiss Made
  A close look at watch dials today reveals a lot. Some wear their country of origin like a badge of honor — with labels such as “Swiss” or “Swiss Made.” Sometimes, however, these labels can be misleading. Exactly what governs whether a watch can bear the words “Swiss Made” has been the subject of much debate for years in Switzerland.

Granted, at the very high end of the luxury spectrum, where most brands are fully integrated Swiss Manufactures, the concept of Swiss Made leaves nothing to interpretation or nuance. Most of these Manufactures make every component in house or rely on nearby specialists for parts (like hairsprings) that they may not be able to produce.

However, at the more affordable level — where watch brands might buy components from one place, assemble movements in another place, purchase bracelets, cases, etc., from still other places, and then finally assemble the entire watch — many variables come into play. Let’s face it, in today’s global economy, many products we believe are made locally are often produced in China, Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong and other countries. While that may be fine for a phone, a computer, a motorcycle or car, it is not necessarily acceptable for fine watchmaking.

Granted not all customers want or need a timepiece made in Switzerland. Many great watches are made outside of Switzerland. However, watches made in Switzerland are usually more highly valued and, generally, a Swiss Made label translates into a hallmark of quality.

The words “Swiss Made” are protected trademarks for the watch industry, and are defended by the Swiss Watch Federation. To be labeled Swiss Made, a watch must contain a movement made (parts, assembly, inspection) in Switzerland and cased up in Switzerland. What’s more, the manufacturer must carry out the final inspections in Switzerland. A movement is considered Swiss if it has been assembled in Switzerland, inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland and the components of Swiss manufacture comprise at least 50 percent of the value of the movement itself.

To the consumer, these very strict guidelines offer protection against lesser standards and act as a seal of quality. It should be noted, though, that many affordable Swiss brands source movement component parts, cases and even bracelets from Japan and Hong Kong, and several have even established their own companies overseas to not only supply these parts to the Swiss manufacture sibling, but also to ensure their quality. By doing so, these brands are able to keep the retail price of Swiss Made watches in check — yielding affordable, fine-quality Swiss timepieces.

Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show is a trade show of the international watch and jewellery industry, organized each spring in the city of Basel, Switzerland.

It comprises about 2,100 exhibitors from over 45 countries, including the leading watch and jewelry brands, as well as companies specializing in precious gems. The show attracts over 94,000 visitors.

The history of the show dates back to 1917 with the opening of the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel (muba), of which a section was devoted to watches and jewellery.

1925 muba invited several watch manufacturers
1931 the Schweizer Uhrenmesse (Swiss Watch Show) was first held in a dedicated pavilion.
After 1972’s Europe’s meeting place exhibition, companies from France, Italy, Germany, and the United Kingdom were also invited.
1983 the show changed its name to BASEL and two numerals denoting the exhibition year, e.g., BASEL 83.
1986, companies from outside Europe were included for the first time, reflecting the increased number of visitors from outside Europe.
1995 the show was renamed to BASEL 95 – The World Watch, Clock and Jewellery Show.
1999, a new hall with 36,000 square meters exhibition space was added. The year 2000 saw an increase of 6 per cent in trade visitors.
2003 the show was again renamed to Baselworld, The Watch and Jewellery Show.
2004, with the introduction of a new hall complex, the exhibition area extended to 160,000 square meters, attracting more than 89,000 visitors.

Susan Beatrice has all of the funky sculptures you need. Creating her pieces of art out of broken watch pieces, each creation is unique and accurate to the animal that she is trying to depict. It combines urban with rural in one clashing, beautiful image, and she has many fans of her work. Beatrice writes that her recycled sculptures are “Earth-friendly and artistic items sensitive to the limits of our natural resources.” Please check her facebook page for more great designs